The Morning News http://ift.tt/2F72ar6
A short movie in which the world's best longboarders try to ride the longest wave possible.
See also, from this summer in the Paris Review: the great art critic Dave Hickey recalls his brief, doomed days as a teenage surfer in Los Angeles.
I woke up in the hospital with two hernias and three splintered ribs, annoyed that I had missed the ambulance ride, and honest to God, I was amazingly proud of myself.
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