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Tuesday, December 12, 2017

The search for the perfect wave never dies.


The Morning News http://ift.tt/2jTOcjx

Surfing just lost its filmmaker: Bruce Brown, director of The Endless Summer, has died at 80.

Brown never understood why the film caught on so widely. One of the surfers from the film told the Los Angeles Times in 1991, “In the Vietnam era, everybody needed something like that. God, you felt good when you left the theater.”

Endless Summer is goofy fun—you can stream it on Netflix—but we love this lesser-known Brown film, Surfing Hollow Days, which contains the first footage of somebody surfing Hawaii's Pipeline break (jump to 1:05:30).

Coincidentally, the Billabong Pipe Masters is taking place at Pipeline as we speak, and Kelly Slater might just make a comeback.

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