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Friday, June 5, 2020

Ghosts from the closet in the face of performative allyship.


The Morning News https://ift.tt/3eUJnRi

Diet Prada ™ has been doing a good job of calling out fashion brands (or promoting those who call them out) that are co-opting Black Lives Matter when their business practices suggest anything but.

Celebrity stylist @JasonBolden called out French luxury brand @Celine for performative #BlackLivesMatter solidarity. Bolden, who dresses some of Hollywood’s brightest Black talents like Cynthia Erivo, Taraji P Henson, Janet Mock, and Yara Shahidi, commented the LVMH-owned brand’s post, stating that they don’t dress Black celebrities unless they have a white stylist. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ @HediSlimane , Celine’s creative director and the man responsible for axing Phoebe Philo’s beloved É, has been a subject of conversation among the industry before for his apparent aversion to Black models. In case you didn’t know, we crunched some numbers for you from all his runway shows thus far: ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Spring 2019: 6% (6 out of 96 exits) Fall 2019 Men’s: 8% (5 out of 66 exits) Fall 2019 Womenswear: 12% (7 out of 59 exits) Spring 2020 Menswear: 6% (3 out of 51 exits) Spring 2020 Womenswear: 9% (6 out of 64 exits) Fall 2020: 9% (10 out of 111 exits) • #blm #celine #lvmh #hedislimane

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Released in February this year, @Ferragamo ’s #VivaViva campaign features a diverse range of six tastemakers—among them, Dara Allen, Paloma Elsesser, and Kiersey Clemens. But the campaign, which @tommy.dorfman both cast and photographed, seems to not have gone down as easily as the chill, progressive vibe it projects. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Following a #BlackLivesMatter Instagram post by the Italian luxury brand in which a range of two light to medium skin tones are represented, the actor, whose pronouns are they/them, said “I regret ever associating myself with the brand”, going on to describe repeated instances of the Italian brand’s racism, transphobia, and fatphobia: ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ “They have said heinous, transphobic, body phobic, and racist things directly to me. I called them out every time and they promised to change. They said they ‘learned’. They have very clearly not learned nor have they changed.” They even explain an instance when someone at the company asked if a Black model could be photoshopped white. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Despite consistently raising the issues to the Ferragamo team, Dorfman describes being met with pushback, “meaningless apologies”, and even the threat of legal action if they were to speak up. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ “We have to, as white people, take a look at where and when we have been complacent and part of racism, homophobia, and transphobia both directly and indirectly and call it out. Call ourselves out.”, the actor added. “People have the right to know where to spend their money and where not to”. • #ferragamo #salvatoreferragamo #luxury #italian #blm #blacklivesmatter #tommydorfman

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